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ニューヨークでのラーメンブームをNYタイムズが紹介しています。
Here Comes Ramen, the Slurp Heard Round the World
By JULIA MOSKIN
Published: November 10, 2004
S a Tokyo-based jazz musician, Shigeto Kamada used to book gigs for his band in remote towns in Hokkaido (the Japanese equivalent of, say, northern Wisconsin), just so he could taste the ramen there. "I would hear of a place with a special broth or a new topping, and I just had to taste it," Mr. Kamada said.
"Ramen?" you ask. "That plastic-wrapped block of dry noodles and powdered soup?" But freshly made ramen is another thing altogether. In Japanese ramenyas (ramen shops) a bowl of ramen holds a house-made soup, springy noodles, the chef's own tare (a mix of soy sauce, sugar and rice wine to flavor the soup) and exactly six traditional toppings. The wait at top Tokyo ramenyas can be up to three hours.
Remember the 1985 movie "Tampopo," in which a ramen chef undergoes training as rigorous as a boxer's to create the perfect bowl of noodle soup? That's ramen mania.
And with new and authentic ramenyas opening in Manhattan, New Yorkers are getting a taste.
Places like Momofuku, Minca Ramen Factory and Rai Rai Ken in the East Village offer Berkshire pork, free-range chicken and proprietary blends of organic miso paste. In Chelsea the just-opened Nooch, part of a Singapore-based chain, is raising the fabulousness quotient of ramen with Karim Rashid-designed donburis (bowls) and a D. J. booth. Chikubu in Midtown makes its succulent ramen only on Friday and Saturday, but it draws a loyal crowd of regulars. Sapporo, though it has all the charm of an office cubicle, serves the best goma (sesame) ramen in the city.
The difference between these richly satisfying bowls and packaged ramen, flavored mostly with MSG, is vast. "New York might never have really great ramen, just like Tokyo might never have really great pizza," said David Chang, the Korean-American chef, trained at Craft and now the owner of Momofuku. "But I'm having a lot of fun trying."
In Japan ramen is more than a cheap cup of noodles. It is the national dish, cheaper than sushi, available everywhere and perpetually fashionable. With its rich, meaty broth, ramen is very different from other Japanese soups; in fact the dish is a relatively recent import from China. But since ramen became popular in Japan in the 1950's, it has been a national institution: quick, inexpensive street food, as closely associated with young people and budget meals as it is here. One Japanese name for instant ramen is gakusei ryori, or student cuisine. Ramen stalls cluster around train stations, and vending machines provide customized bowls.
"It's inescapable" said Mark Schilling, an Ohio native who has since 1975 lived in Japan, where he is a film critic. Especially in the winter Japanese diners line up to indulge in the much-loved ramen ritual, wreathed in steam, salt and slurping.
It is fiercely beloved and bitterly missed by expats like Mr. Kamada, the musician, who owns Minca Ramen Factory in the East Village.
"I only started making ramen here because I needed some to eat," he said. "I can't live without it."
He is hardly alone. "There is an insatiable appetite for ramen and ramen culture in Japan," Mr. Schilling said.
Like American barbecue joints, ramen shops close when they run out of their key ingredient: soup, which is always carefully made on the premises, like a French stock. This only adds to the mystique.
In Japan ramen chefs can become famous by playing variations on the ramen formula, like browning the scallions that garnish the soup. Such innovations are covered in magazines like 1 Week Tokyo, which has a column devoted to ramen, and on television. Prime Minister Junichiro Koizumi is often photographed at ramenyas, sitting at the counter along with the regular customers, just as our political candidates conspicuously patronize country diners. Last year an online brokerage firm, Traders Securities, inaugurated an investment fund with returns pegged to the earnings of 200 ramenyas around Japan.
Here Comes Ramen, the Slurp Heard Round the World
By JULIA MOSKIN
Published: November 10, 2004
S a Tokyo-based jazz musician, Shigeto Kamada used to book gigs for his band in remote towns in Hokkaido (the Japanese equivalent of, say, northern Wisconsin), just so he could taste the ramen there. "I would hear of a place with a special broth or a new topping, and I just had to taste it," Mr. Kamada said.
"Ramen?" you ask. "That plastic-wrapped block of dry noodles and powdered soup?" But freshly made ramen is another thing altogether. In Japanese ramenyas (ramen shops) a bowl of ramen holds a house-made soup, springy noodles, the chef's own tare (a mix of soy sauce, sugar and rice wine to flavor the soup) and exactly six traditional toppings. The wait at top Tokyo ramenyas can be up to three hours.
Remember the 1985 movie "Tampopo," in which a ramen chef undergoes training as rigorous as a boxer's to create the perfect bowl of noodle soup? That's ramen mania.
And with new and authentic ramenyas opening in Manhattan, New Yorkers are getting a taste.
Places like Momofuku, Minca Ramen Factory and Rai Rai Ken in the East Village offer Berkshire pork, free-range chicken and proprietary blends of organic miso paste. In Chelsea the just-opened Nooch, part of a Singapore-based chain, is raising the fabulousness quotient of ramen with Karim Rashid-designed donburis (bowls) and a D. J. booth. Chikubu in Midtown makes its succulent ramen only on Friday and Saturday, but it draws a loyal crowd of regulars. Sapporo, though it has all the charm of an office cubicle, serves the best goma (sesame) ramen in the city.
The difference between these richly satisfying bowls and packaged ramen, flavored mostly with MSG, is vast. "New York might never have really great ramen, just like Tokyo might never have really great pizza," said David Chang, the Korean-American chef, trained at Craft and now the owner of Momofuku. "But I'm having a lot of fun trying."
In Japan ramen is more than a cheap cup of noodles. It is the national dish, cheaper than sushi, available everywhere and perpetually fashionable. With its rich, meaty broth, ramen is very different from other Japanese soups; in fact the dish is a relatively recent import from China. But since ramen became popular in Japan in the 1950's, it has been a national institution: quick, inexpensive street food, as closely associated with young people and budget meals as it is here. One Japanese name for instant ramen is gakusei ryori, or student cuisine. Ramen stalls cluster around train stations, and vending machines provide customized bowls.
"It's inescapable" said Mark Schilling, an Ohio native who has since 1975 lived in Japan, where he is a film critic. Especially in the winter Japanese diners line up to indulge in the much-loved ramen ritual, wreathed in steam, salt and slurping.
It is fiercely beloved and bitterly missed by expats like Mr. Kamada, the musician, who owns Minca Ramen Factory in the East Village.
"I only started making ramen here because I needed some to eat," he said. "I can't live without it."
He is hardly alone. "There is an insatiable appetite for ramen and ramen culture in Japan," Mr. Schilling said.
Like American barbecue joints, ramen shops close when they run out of their key ingredient: soup, which is always carefully made on the premises, like a French stock. This only adds to the mystique.
In Japan ramen chefs can become famous by playing variations on the ramen formula, like browning the scallions that garnish the soup. Such innovations are covered in magazines like 1 Week Tokyo, which has a column devoted to ramen, and on television. Prime Minister Junichiro Koizumi is often photographed at ramenyas, sitting at the counter along with the regular customers, just as our political candidates conspicuously patronize country diners. Last year an online brokerage firm, Traders Securities, inaugurated an investment fund with returns pegged to the earnings of 200 ramenyas around Japan.
管理人さんいつもお世話になってますまたまた告知ですみません
このたび鶏そば本舗「屋台らーめん鷹流」はなんとかつぶれないで開店３周年を迎えることになりましたこれもひとえに皆様のご愛顧のおかげと、スタッフ一同感謝の気持ちでいっぱいです
http://ameblo.jp/taka-police-harley/entry-11097854788.html
つきましては３周年を記念いたしまして、感謝を込めて、ささやかではございますが鷹流らーめん一番人気メニューの白鶏麺７８０円をサンキューフェアとしまして３９０円にて提供させていただきます
ぜひお友達お誘い合わせの上ご来店お待ちしております。
１２月９日(金)・１０日(土)の２日間
白鶏麺７８０円(税込み)→３９０円(税込み)
※小学生以下無料!
※準備したスープ・食材が終わり次第終了しますご了承くださいm(__)m
ありがとうございますm(__)m
このたび鶏そば本舗「屋台らーめん鷹流」はなんとかつぶれないで開店３周年を迎えることになりましたこれもひとえに皆様のご愛顧のおかげと、スタッフ一同感謝の気持ちでいっぱいです
http://ameblo.jp/taka-police-harley/entry-11097854788.html
つきましては３周年を記念いたしまして、感謝を込めて、ささやかではございますが鷹流らーめん一番人気メニューの白鶏麺７８０円をサンキューフェアとしまして３９０円にて提供させていただきます
ぜひお友達お誘い合わせの上ご来店お待ちしております。
１２月９日(金)・１０日(土)の２日間
白鶏麺７８０円(税込み)→３９０円(税込み)
※小学生以下無料!
※準備したスープ・食材が終わり次第終了しますご了承くださいm(__)m
ありがとうございますm(__)m
新参者ですが、皆さんに質問。
よく単純に「パスタ」と言ってしまいますが、
小麦粉を水で練ったものはみんな「パスタ」なんだよ、ということを昔何かの本で読んだ気がします。
マカロニ、ペンネ、ニョッキ、ラザニア、ラビオリ等全て「パスタ」料理なんだよ、と。
その中で麺状のものを「スパゲッティ」と呼ぶのだ、と。
ところが「パスタ」＝「スパゲッティ」みたいなイメージが日本人にはあるような気がするのですが、
皆さんは普段どう感じられてますか？
調べると、いわゆる麺状パスタにも「スパゲッティ」以外にいろんな種類があるようで、あまり細かいことを言い出すとキリがなさそうなのですが、私はその本を信じて麺状パスタは「スパゲッティ」と呼び続けてきました。
同じ意見をお持ちの方、「いや、ちがーう！こういうことなのだ！」という意見、ちょっといろいろ聞いてみたいなと思い、トピ上げしてみました。
よく単純に「パスタ」と言ってしまいますが、
小麦粉を水で練ったものはみんな「パスタ」なんだよ、ということを昔何かの本で読んだ気がします。
マカロニ、ペンネ、ニョッキ、ラザニア、ラビオリ等全て「パスタ」料理なんだよ、と。
その中で麺状のものを「スパゲッティ」と呼ぶのだ、と。
ところが「パスタ」＝「スパゲッティ」みたいなイメージが日本人にはあるような気がするのですが、
皆さんは普段どう感じられてますか？
調べると、いわゆる麺状パスタにも「スパゲッティ」以外にいろんな種類があるようで、あまり細かいことを言い出すとキリがなさそうなのですが、私はその本を信じて麺状パスタは「スパゲッティ」と呼び続けてきました。
同じ意見をお持ちの方、「いや、ちがーう！こういうことなのだ！」という意見、ちょっといろいろ聞いてみたいなと思い、トピ上げしてみました。
- mixiユーザー
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