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SKETCH UK

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Have been thare?
The restaurant in question is Sketch, a much written about new venture from French wunder-chef, Pierre Gagnaire and Mourad Mazouz, proprietor of Momo (a soi-disant North African restaurant of which I have never thought highly). Its home, 9 Conduit Street, is a substantial 18th-century town house that has been converted into a stately gastrodome, with a cafe and patisserie, a bar and brasserie, and what used to be called a fine dining restaurant, divided into two parts, the Library and the Lecture Room. I will say right off that I find the design concept a lot of bollocks. I am not talking about the cafe, patisserie, bar and brasserie on the ground floor, which I did not inspect thoroughly, but - from the plastic swirls that look like chocolate and coffee splashed on the sweeping staircase, through the hideous vulgarity of the lavatory, to the long bars of carefully graded orange to yellow to cream rising up the walls of the dining room - the fine dining part is a ridiculous mishmash of styles.

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